Lawnmowers are invaluable tools that give your lawn or yard a well-manicured look. However, if you have a small or an average-sized lawn, or maybe you need to cut grass in hard to reach places, a weed eater or a string trimmer is a better choice since lawn mowers are quite robust to handle such tight assignments. While they’re usually more convenient, figuring out how to start a weed eater is one critical step that can help you take care of your unkempt grass to give it a revitalized appeal.

Although we will discuss this further, later on, weed trimmers usually come in three main categories, which are the gas-powered, electric corded, and electric cordless or battery-powered trimmers. As the final consumer, you always have the edge to choose which type best suits you. However, when it comes to igniting your weed eater, each of these types has a specific procedure you’re required to follow. So, whether it’s an EGO, a Milwaukee, an Echo, Stihl, DeWalt, or Ryobi, this guide will discuss some simple steps on how to start your weed whacker.


Types of Weed Eaters Explained

Gas Powered Weed Eater

Gas trimmers are actually the oldest of the three types of weed eaters we’ll be covering in this topic. They come in two variants, which are the 2-stroke and the 4-stroke. The 2-stroke uses a mixture of gas and oil while the 4-stroke relies on gas only. Whichever type you decide to use, both of these variants are powered by a high torque engine that allows them to handle tough cutting tasks such as cleaning bushes and trimming tough weeds and grass.

Unlike battery-powered trimmers, gas weed eaters offer immense mobility meaning you can trim a huge area provided you have enough gas in the fuel tank. This is actually one of the greatest benefits of relying on these weed eaters over the electric versions.


Corded Electric Weed Trimmers

Although weed eaters generally come in two versions—the gas-powered and the electric versions—we’ve decided to split the electric version into corded and cordless/battery powered variants since they tend to differ at some point.

Now, the corded-electric trimmer is one that requires a constant plug to the power outlet to work. Although they’re most suited for small lawns and yards, their convenience is inevitable so long as you have a long cord.

These weed eaters are lighter than both gas and battery-powered types as they don’t rely on engines or bulky battery packs to operate. They’re also quieter than both gas and cordless versions and they don’t emit any fumes making them environmentally friendly.


Cordless/Battery-Powered Weed Eaters

Lastly, we have the cordless versions. The best thing about these weed eaters is that they’ve tried to make up for the shortcomings of both the gas and the corded weed trimmer versions. They’ve done that by picking some of the key features of both weed eaters in an attempt to upgrade your trimming experience.

For instance, these trimmers have picked the mobility advantage from gas trimmers but have neglected the messy gas and oil mixture as well as the loud noise and exhaust fumes that come with gas trimmers. They’ve also picked the quiet operation of the corded trimmer and neglected the cord restrictions meaning you can trim any corner of your yard without being restricted by any plugins.


How to Start Each of the Three Weed Eaters

Now that we’ve discussed the three main types of weed eaters you’re likely to find in almost any hardware store, our next discussion is generally a step-by-step procedure on how to safely start each of these weed eaters.


Part One: How to Start a Gas-Powered Weed Eater

  • Step One: Clear the Area

Before you can do anything, you need to first clear the area where you’ll be working on by removing any obstacles that can catch fire. Besides, since the trimmer’s head will spin immediately it’s powered, it’s wise that you remove any foreign objects that might get damaged or trigger an accident. This is actually one of the most important safety procedures that most people bypass.

  • Step Two: Put on Your Safety Gear

Once you’ve cleared the working area, the next step is to put on your safety gear which includes the glasses, leather gloves, helmet, and ear protection.

  • Step Three: Inspect the Fuel Tank

Once you’ve put on the right gear, the next step is to inspect the fuel tank to ensure there’s sufficient gas to start the engine. You need to be really careful at this point as starting a weed eater with a low fuel level can cause disruptions when starting or humper the machine altogether.

In case your specific trimmer model is a 2-stroke, you’ll have to add unleaded gasoline mixed with 2-stroke oil in the ratio 40:1. For the case of a 4-stroke model, simply add pure fuel that hasn’t been mixed with oil.

  • Step Four: Prime the Engine

Now, if your specific weed eater model has a fuel bulb (located just beneath the carburetor), you need to depress it several times to prime the engine. You can give it some time to allow the fuel to traverse through the fuel line. Some people prefer to prime the engine at this point, while others prefer to do it later on.

  • Step Five: Flip the Killer Switch to “ON” Position

Once you’re done with priming the engine, the next step is to find the killer switch and flip it On. Remember, the On/Off switch is the one that regulates the amount of electricity that’s getting to the motor. Since the motor can’t start with the killer switch Off, it, therefore, has to be turned on.

In most models, the switch is located near the shaft and it’s one of the safety features that has been added to a weed eater to ensure that it doesn’t start unexpectedly or accidentally.

  • Step Six: Switch the Choke Lever to “ON”

The next step is to adjust the position of the choke lever. There are usually two ways you can do this depending on the status of the weed eater. If you’re starting the engine cold (usually after a lengthy period of being dormant), you need to push the choke lever to “FULL”. That’s because the engine is usually at a much lower temperature than normal.

On the other hand, if you’re starting the weed eater after being in use in the past few minutes, then you’ll need to position the lever to “HALF CHOKE”. That’s because the engine is already warm and only requires a little boost to start.

  • Step Seven: Place the Trimmer on a Flat Surface

This is another critical step most people bypass. Here, you simply need to place the trimmer on the ground in a position where you can easily access the pull cord. In this position, the trimmer head shield should be in contact with the ground to prevent the trimmer line from getting into contact with any objects once the engine starts.

  • Step Eight: Pull the Cord

Although we mentioned it in step four, some people prefer to press the purge valve or the primer bulb at this point. This is, in fact, a necessary step if you’re starting the engine cold. So, just as we mentioned earlier, you only have to press it several times (about 5 to 6 times) to allow fresh gas to get into the carburetor.

Next, hold the weed eater with one hand while the other hand prepares to pull the cord. Simply pull it steadily but gently for about 3 to 5 times until you hear the engine start. In case the engine doesn’t run, you can adjust the position of the choke lever then squeeze the throttle trigger before attempting for the second time.

  • Step Nine: Allow the Engine to Warm Up

Now that the engine has started running, you need to give it some time (about 15 seconds) to warm up the engine. At this time, don’t touch anything including the throttle trigger and the choke lever.

Once the 15 seconds are over, you can now turn the choke lever off or turn it to the run position—it’s all the same. By doing this, you generally allow precise airflow back to the engine which helps to minimize fuel consumption by increasing the engine’s efficiency.

Wait for another 3 to 5 minutes to give the engine more time to warm up. After that, press the throttle trigger once to disengage the throttle lock. Once you’ve done that, your trimmer is now operational and ready to start working.


Part Two: How to Start a Corded Electric Weed Eater

  • Step One: Read the Manual

Before you can start using your weed eater, it’s always a good practice to first read the manual. Although you may think you know, you might be surprised to find your specific weed eater model being slightly different from the rest.

Also, by reading the manual, you might get some tips on the type of wire to use for the extension cord. Remember, using thin wires or an extra-long extension cord can lead to loss of some voltage on the way.

  • Step Two: Plug the Weed Eater

Once you’ve gone through the manual, the next step is to inspect the weed eater and the extension cord to ensure they were not damaged during their last use. Make sure the extension cord doesn’t have any exposed wires as this can cause electrocution or possible short-circuiting.

Once you’re done, you can now plug the weed eater to the power outlet. As you can see, corded electric weed whackers are very easy to operate. Unlike their gas-powered counterparts, electric corded trimmers only require you to plug them on the power outlet and you’re good to go.

  • Step Three: Pull the Trigger

So, once you’ve plugged the machine on a power outlet, the next step is to activate the trigger. You only have to pull it gently while keeping your eyes and ears open for any abnormal sounds. From there, your weed eater is ready to use.


Part Three: How to Start a Cordless Electric Weed Eater

  • Step One: Read the Manual

Now, if you’re using a cordless electric weed trimmer, you’ll need to go through the user manual to familiarize yourself with the type of batteries this weed eater uses. You also need to check the battery specification such as the voltage, battery size & capacity, and battery runtime & charge time. With such information, it will be easier for you to determine how far the weed eater can trim before being recharged.

  • Step Two: Inspection

Just like with our previous corded version, the cordless version will also need to be inspected to ensure it’s in a tiptop condition. Inspect the various moving parts including the trimmer line to ensure there are no damages.

  • Step Three: Pull the Trigger

Once you’ve inspected everything, find some clear space where you can start the weed eater without causing any damages. Hold down the trigger and the trimmer is ready to work. The beauty of electric weed eaters (in general) is that they use the plug-and-go working technique. You don’t need to go through the lengthy process of adjusting the choke, pressing the primer bulb, or pulling the cords.

The only thing you need to take care of is the batteries and a steady power supply in the case of corded versions.



In conclusion, when choosing a weed eater, whether it’s a gas-powered, a corded electric, or a cordless electric version, your choice should be based on your preferences such as your budget and the size of your yard.

But, regardless of all that, one factor that can have a greater impact on your decision is how to start the weed eater. As you have seen, the gas-powered version is generally the best in terms of output power. However, the starting procedure is quite complex and time-consuming. This is quite different from the electric version that only requires you to plug or add the batteries and “ON” the machine goes.

Thankfully, with insightful guides such as this, you’re able to gather enough information on how to start each of the three weed eater types before making your final decision.


01. How To Start a Stihl Weed Eater (For Beginners) – pad outdoor

02. How to Start a Weed Whacker – wikiHow

03. How to Start a Gas Weed Eater – hunker

If you’re an enthusiastic homeowner, then you’re aware of how important a weed eater is as part of your yard work tools collection. Unlike lawn mowers, a weed eater is a fantastic power tool that provides you with the convenience of trimming grass and weeds around trees, rocks, and under fences. But, just like most power tools, using your weed eater continuously (whether gas, electric, or battery-powered) will expose the thin plastic strings to wear due to frequent contact with grass, weeds, rocks, and other obstacles. So, to reduce the frustration most people might experience, this short guide will discuss how to string a weed eater to restore it back to its former glory.

But, before you can begin, it’s always good to understand that weed eaters come in different shapes and sizes. They also come in two major categories that are the single-sided and the dual-sided versions. In addition, the direction of loading the trimmer line on the spool will vary depending on the brand so you have to be careful before you begin the process. With that said, this guide has put together an 8 step guide that will work with any weed eater brand from Husqvarna, Homelite, Echo, to Troy Bilt among others.


How to String a Weed Wacker: Step by Step Guide

Things You’ll need

  • Weedeater string
  • A pair of scissors


Part One: Stringing a Weed Eater

Step One

Turn Off the Weed Eater: In case you are using the weed eater, the first step is of course to turn it off. When you’re done, spare some time to go through the instruction manual. This will help you to understand the type of trimmer line you’re supposed to use as each model differs greatly. However, in most cases, gas-powered weed eater uses the 0.080 and 0.095 inches lines while most electric-powered versions use 0.065 inches lines.

Step Two

Remove the Spool: Now, there are different ways you can remove the spool depending on the model of your specific weed eater. Some models will require you to squeeze it to release the tabs on the cover while others will require you to unscrew a couple of screws to detach the spool from the trimmer.

Step Three

Clean the Spool: It’squite likely the spool will have some dirt, grass, weeds, and a piece of trimming line left in the inside. Before you continue, it’s good to clean it thoroughly by removing such debris.

Step Four

Cut the String: Once you’re done with the spool, you can now cut the trimming line or the string. Just to be sure, it’s wise to always consult your user manual to have an idea of how much line is enough. In case there’s no manual to refer to, don’t panic.

As a rule of thumb, cutting a line anywhere from 15 – 25 ft. will be enough. If the line is too long, you can always modify it by cutting the extra ends when you’re done. For the case of a dual-sided weed eater, cut two identical lines with the same lengths.

Step Five

Start Restringing: To restring, you’ll have to identify the hole on the spool where you’ll be inserting the string. Pull one end of the string about 6 inches then wind the rest of the line around the spool. Always follow the direction of the arrows when stringing since some will need to string clockwise and others anticlockwise depending on the model.

When winding, always do it slowly and neatly to avoid jams later on. When you’re done, snap the 6-inch line on the spool’s retainer to hold it.

Now, if you’re stringing a dual-sided weed eater, you’ll need to follow this process on both holes. Remember to leave 6 inches of line on both sides and don’t forget to snap them on the retainer to be held firmly.

Step Six

Replace the Spool: So, once you’re done wrapping the line around the spool, the next step is to replace the spool back into the weed eater. But before doing that, make sure that you remove the 6-inch line from the retainer to the exit slots. This will ensure that the string is held tightly while making the feeding process quite smooth.

When you’re done, slide the spool back into the cover and secure it tightly using the tubs or screws depending on your specific model. Make sure the string is moving freely and that it’s no longer than the line limiter blade on the weed eater’s shield.

For the case of a dual-sided weed trimmer, you have to remove the lines from the retainers and insert them through the machine’s eyelets or the exit holes. When you’re done, slide the spool on the trimmer’s head and secure it using screws or tabs depending on the specific model.


Part Two: Proper Maintenance of a Weed Eater

Now that we’ve discussed some steps on how to string your weed eater, let’s conclude this short guide by highlighting some steps on how to specifically maintain your trimming string.

  • When tapping the spool to feed more string, always remember to keep the trimmer parallel to the ground to avoid hitting rocks and other obstacles.
  • Always pay attention to the sound of the weed eater to know when it’s time to restring.
  • Avoid tapping the trimmer time after time. This can cause it to release more string, which will end up being cut by the limiter blade. This will cause you to run out of string in just a short while which is of course a waste.
  • If possible, pay attention to the size of the spool when shopping for a weed eater. Remember, the bigger the spool is, the more the string it can hold. This in return will help your string last longer before its restringed again.
  • Something else you need to be aware of is the issue of leaving your weed eater on direct sunlight. This practice can easily damage your string due to deterioration caused by heat.



There you have it. In case you’ve been wondering how exactly to string your weed eater, then this short guide has offered you everything that’s needed to begin. But, before you can start, it’s good to always start by reading the user manual to understand your specific weed trimmer. Secondly, avoid winding too much string on the spool to avoid logging the string on the weed eater’s holes as this can make it hard to feed the line.




02. How to String a Weed Wacker – WHACK YOUR WEEDS

03. How To String A Dual-Sided Weed Eater Spool – Backyard Workshop

If you’re a fan of sunglasses, then I believe you’ve heard the phrase “polarized vs non polarized sunglasses”, right? If you’re curious enough, I believe you’ve wondered what this means and what should you get between the two. Since most people tend to get confused whenever they hear these eyewear features and terminologies, this short guide will discuss the main difference between polarized and non-polarized sunglasses as well as highlight the main pros and cons that sets them apart.

The main reason why polarized and non-polarized sunglasses are so common today is due to their ability to protect your eyes from UV radiation. Now, light can travel both vertically and horizontally. When it bounces vertically on a surface (on the road or surface of the water), the light waves that bounce off (now horizontal waves) are usually concentrated due to the reflection. This results in glare, which can be dangerous to your eyes unless it’s filtered away by wearing sunglasses. With that said, this guide will help reduce the herculean task of choosing the right sunglasses by discussing everything regarding polarized and non-polarized sunglasses to improve your visual acuity and clarity when you’re in the outdoors.

Related Posts: Reading Glasses, Night Vision Glasses


Polarized vs Non Polarized Sunglasses: Pros & Cons

What are Polarized Sunglasses?

Now, most newcomers in the sunglasses field are likely to get confused whenever they hear these two terms. However, we will define these terms with plain language to help you understand. Now, polarized sunglasses are simply those sunglasses that contain polarized lenses. These lenses are coated or rather treated with a thin chemical film that provides the wearer with anti-haze and anti-blur protection making their vision clearer when viewing things with naked eyes.

As you already know, light is reflected in different orientations. However, the horizontal orientation is usually the most problematic as it causes glare that can be irritating and blinding especially if you’re driving a car or riding a boat.  So, to reduce this glare, especially to people with eye sensitivity, polarized sunglasses are the best to consider.


What are Non-Polarized Sunglasses?

Although nothing can beat the convenience of polarized sunglasses, non-polarized sunglasses cannot just be ignored. Although they’re nowhere near to competing with their high-performance counterparts, these sunglasses offer immense substantial benefits when it comes to visual health. If your lifestyle regularly takes you to the great outdoors, non-polarized sunglasses will offer essential UV protection just like polarized sunglasses.

However, the lenses of these sunglasses are not coated with the protective film that can help them counter the effects of horizontal polarization. Due to this reason, these sunglasses cannot reduce the glare from reflective light to offer you improved visibility.

Although that’s a huge blow, non-polarized sunglasses are considered the best when it comes to viewing images on Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs) especially on flat TVs, Smartphones, and GPS navigation systems. This, therefore, makes them the best for drivers, boaters, and pilots relying heavily on GPS assistance.


Advantages of Polarized Sunglasses

Now that you’re fully aware of what polarized and non-polarized sunglasses are, this section will now discuss some major benefits of polarized sunglasses as well as some key drawbacks over their non-polarized counterparts.

  • Enhance Visual Comfort:

The first major benefit of polarized sunglasses is the ability to reduce extreme amounts of glare from your eyes when viewing objects in bright conditions. When light reflects on a surface vertically, it concentrates the light waves in a horizontal direction.

This can cause extreme dazzle that prevents you from viewing objects with clarity. Thankfully, with polarized sunglasses, this condition is carefully handled allowing you to view the environment in authentic colors even when conditions are exceptionally bright.

  • Increased Vision Clarity:

Another key advantage of polarized sunglasses is that they provide you with clear visibility when viewing objects that are on the ground level. You see, if you’re driving on a wet road or maybe riding a boat for the case of fishermen, the reflected horizontal light is capable of causing over-exposure, which can strain your eyes and decrease visual clarity.

Thankfully, with polarized sunglasses, the horizontal light waves are easily filtered away giving you improved contrast and visual clarity.

  • Reduces Eyestrain:

If you happen to suddenly walk out of the house, what happens is that you’re likely to get irritated by the extensive light. In response to that, you’re likely to reduce the shape of your eyes to control the amount of light getting into your retina. This is likely to cause eye strain that can lead to headaches, fatigue, and redness.

So, to reduce these eye-related complications, polarized sunglasses work by neutralizing the glare from outside reflections to make your eyes feel comfortable and more rested.

  • They Work for Everyone:

Another benefit of these sunglasses is that they can work for anyone unless a professional doctor tells you otherwise. Since they’re not for medical purposes, polarized sunglasses protect your eyes against the harmful UVA/UVB and HEV rays. High impact on harmful radiation from the sun can lead to reduced vision if you’re not careful.

  • Improves Visibility Below the Water Surface:

If you have ever watched outdoor enthusiasts participate in boating, fishing, and waterskiing sporting activities, there’s a high chance they’re wearing polarized sunglasses. You see, when light bounces on the surface of the water, it causes reduced visibility that makes it harder for you to view objects that are below the water surface.

Thankfully, with the help of polarized sunglasses, this glare is reduced significantly making it easier for you to view objects or other swimmers beneath the water. This can help you improve your swimming experience by helping you to dodge obstacles that might be lying below the water.


Disadvantages of Polarized Sunglasses

  • They’re Costly:

It’s clear that polarized lenses tend to cost more than ordinary lenses used in conventional sunglasses. While ordinary sunglasses cost anywhere from $15, those with polarized lenses are usually costlier with prices that can go up to 30% the cost of standard lenses. Since they’re a hefty investment, their high prices can offset customers who’re looking for sunglasses with a decent range of affordability.

  • Durability Issues:

To offer a cost-effective solution, some polarized sunglasses consist of basic plastic lenses that have been coated with a thin film to create the polarization effect. What happens with such goggles or sunglasses is that the thin film can start peeling, flaking, or bubbling over time making it quite impossible to use them.

  • Challenging to Distinguish Between Colors:

Now, the technology behind polarized sunglasses is only designed to filter horizontal light waves. There are situations, however, when this technology may become ineffective. For instance, if you’re skiing late in the evening or early in the morning, it might be challenging to distinguish white colors such as snow, hills, and other obstacles. This means that a skier can find it difficult to distinguish obstacles, which can lead to a catastrophe.

  • Hard to View LCD Screens:

Although the chemical agents used in polarized lenses have immense benefits, their filtering mechanism can substantially reduce the amount of light your eyes process from LCD monitors. Although you can easily view a screen from a direct line, the objects on the screen can disappear completely if viewing them at an angle.

Due to the substantial effects, the filtering process has on your vision, polarized sunglasses are highly restricted to operators that rely on LCD screens to operate heavy machines. This includes airplane pilots keeping in mind modern cockpits are equipped with more LED screens than before.


Advantages of Non-Polarized Sunglasses

  • Cost-Effective:

The first major advantage of non-polarized sunglasses is that they’re usually cost-effective. That’s because they lack the additional layer that’s used by polarized sunglasses to filter the glare in a bid to increase visibility.

  • Reduced Color Clarity:

Now, most people tend to hail the increased contrast and color clarity offered by polarized sunglasses. Although it reduced headaches and eyestrains, it may not work for everyone. There are some people whose eyes get irritated by too much filtering forcing them to consider non-polarized sunglasses as an alternative.

  • Best for Skiing:

One of the key benefits of non-polarized sunglasses is when you’re skiing. The technology behind polarized lenses may cause them to block reflections from snowy surfaces making it extremely hard for skiers to distinguish obstacles. Since it only takes a single mistake for a catastrophe to occur, non-polarized sunglasses are usually considered since they’re not affected by such surface reflection.

  • Best for Flying:

Another major advantage of non-polarized sunglasses over their polarized counterparts is that they make it easier for pilots to view images on their LCD screens. This is quite different from polarized lenses as they cause the images to disappear from an LCD screen if viewed at an angle.

  • Operating Heavy Machines:

Just like in airplane situations, operators using heavy machines that rely on LCD screens can face difficulty viewing if they’re wearing polarized sunglasses. This makes it difficult to see the controls clearly or use the GPS for that matter.


Disadvantages of Non-Polarized Sunglasses

  • Inability to Filter Glare:

The only major drawback with non-polarized sunglasses is their inability to restrict vibrations from transverse waves (in this case light waves). This comes in the form of harsh glare caused by reflective surfaces such as wet and snowy roads, headlights from oncoming cars and water for the case of boaters. This can lead to extreme headaches and eyestrains following prolonged exposure.

  • Reduced Vision Clarity:

Another negative effect of non-polarized sunglasses is reduced vision clarity. Since they lack the polarization advantage, these sunglasses are susceptible to harsh light and glare that significantly reduces contrast and color clarity leading to reduced optical experience.



So, are polarized sunglasses better than their non-polarized counterparts? Well, the answer to this question will boil down to your preference. Some people may decide to gravitate towards the visual clarity of polarized sunglasses while others may prefer the natural view of non-polarized sunglasses that resembles the naked eyes. Whichever path you take, always consider the various benefits and drawbacks that come with each of these sunglasses to avoid buying a wrong pair.

As we conclude, we would like to remind you about the fundamental purpose of sunglasses—to protect your eyes from harmful UV rays by blocking bright sunlight. So, whether you decide to take the polarized or the non-polarized route, always make sure the lenses have adequate UV protection (usually UV400).


01. Polarized vs Non-Polarized Sunglasses – Choosing the Best For You – Eyewear Genius

02. Is there a difference in polarized vs. non-polarized sunglasses? – ALL ABOUT VISION

03. Polarized vs. Non-Polarized Sunglasses – Knockaround

04. Polarized vs Non Polarized Sunglasses – Eye Wear These

The dilemma of choosing between an electric and a gas-powered weed eater is one that has troubled most homeowners. In fact, it has a considerable bearing on how convenient a particular weed eater is in accomplishing a particular outdoor project. However, the topic of electric vs gas weed eater is usually determined by how much noise you can bear. Since weeds don’t require too much power to trim, some people may opt to sacrifice the output of a gas engine for the quieter operation of an electric weed eater.

But, that’s not the case with everyone. While some will only consider the noise factor, others will consider tons of other factors such as weight, run-time power supply, price and lots of other specs to ensure that what they get truly works for them. So, to help you decide on whether to take the electric or the gas-powered route, this guide will conduct a head-to-head comparison between these two trimmers as well as highlight the pros and cons of each version.


But First, How Does a Weed Eater Work?

Now, before we get to how a weed eater works, I would like to clear any misunderstanding regarding weed eaters and trimmers. In most topics relating to weed eaters, you’ll hear the term weed trimmers being used as well. The truth is that these terms refer to the same thing. Terms such as weed Wacker and weed trim all refer to trimmers or weed eaters.

Now, back to how a weed eater works, this power tool has three main parts that combine forces to achieve the rotational centrifugal force that’s required to operate it. These parts consist of the engine, the gearbox, and the trimmer head.

The first part is the engine, which has the carburetor, the spark plug, the exhaust system, and the pull rope. So, when you pull the rope to start your weed eater, the spark plug fires the fuel-air mixture that has already been mixed carefully by the carburetor. The exhaust on its side does the work of exiting the burned fuels from the engine.

Once the engine has fired, the gearbox (which varies from model to model) takes over by controlling the working power. It consists of a clutch that’s connected to the drum. The drum is then connected to the shaft, which is then attached to the trimmer’s head.

Now, the trimmer’s head is what does the actual cutting. This is where you’ll find the spool and the cutting line sticking out from the trimmer’s head. When the speed is increased, the centrifugal force from the rotating motor stiffens the string causing it to cut weeds like a sharp razor. This high centrifugal force gives the string immense power to trim bushes, small shrubs, and thin branches with ease.


Electric vs Gas Weed Eater: Head to Head Features

Longer Use Time

Now, when it comes to the use time, both the electric and the gas-powered weed eaters can offer almost the same results. The gas-powered weed eater on its side is capable of trimming for extended periods provided the gas tank has sufficient fuel. If it’s well maintained, the fuel can power this appliance for a couple of hours in a single day.

On the other hand, a corded electric weed eater can deliver the same results provided it’s plugged into a power outlet. In such a case, what you’ll need is a long cord to ensure you’re not limited. However, if the space being trimmed is quite large, you’ll have to consider the convenience of a cordless trimmer which, unfortunately, will be limited by battery life.

Note: In that case, the gas version wins


Size and Weight

Although gas trimmers are powerful, there’s always a trade-off between weight and performance. Their great power comes with the added cost of being bulky due to the engine, the carburetor, the fuel tank, and the rest of the parts that combine to power up this tool. With weights of 10 pounds and above, gas trimmers are heavy especially when you consider carrying it on your back.

On the other hand, since electric trimmers don’t have the added parts of a gas weed eater such as the engine, the carburetor, spark plugs, and the fuel tank, it’s usually considered a lightweight alternative. Weighing around 5 pounds, electric trimmers, especially cordless versions, are easier to handle making them the best for users with backaches and muscle problems.

Note: Therefore, the electric versions take the day


Operating Power

One huge advantage, that’s by the way synonymous, to gas-powered trimmers is the output power. Gas-powered trimmers are hailed for their immense power which is all thanks to their powerful 2-stroke or 4-stroke engines. With over 12,000 RPM of power, gas-powered weed eaters can produce a very high centrifugal force that’s enough to spin the string faster and steadier to trim hard weeds and thicker bushes and branches.

When it comes to electric trimmers, the amount of power output they generate is dependent on the voltage and the type of trimming wire used by the trimmer. Although they offer a maximum power output of around 6.500 RPM, none of them can compare to that of a gas-powered trimmer.

Thankfully, with the advancement in technology, most electric trimmers are adapting to the use of brushless motors to increase torque by decreasing resistance on the motor itself.

Note: Without a doubt, the gas version is the ultimate winner


Ease of Use

One of the biggest challenges of dealing with a gas trimmer is difficulty in operating. In fact, they’re the least user-friendly when it comes to maintenance and igniting. For instance, when starting a gas trimmer, you have to pull the cord several times to ignite it just the way you do it with most 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines. Besides, you have to deal with regular oil changes, refueling, and general engine maintenance to make sure it’s working properly.

When it comes to electric weed eaters, starting the motor is as easy as pressing the trigger. The only hassle is checking whether it’s plugged into the power outlet or for the case of the cordless version, to check whether the batteries are working.

Other than that, the electric version is very easy to go by as you don’t have to struggle with pulling the cord, maintaining the engine, or refueling.

Note: For that reason, the electric version wins



Although electric weed eater versions are gaining popularity really fast, which is by the way increasing their accessibility, the gas trimmer is the most accessible. If you happen to visit any hardware store, you’ll most likely find an assortment of gas weed eaters giving them better accessibility as compared to electric trimmers.

Another thing about gas trimmers is that all you have to worry about is the fuel, which again is easily accessible at the nearest gas station. If you’re a homeowner with multiple gas-powered tools, you can easily store your own gasoline safely at home to make it more convenient when using your tools.

This is quite the contrary with electric trimmers where you have to go through the hassle of purchasing the right batteries that can last longer without depleting. For the corded versions, you have to ensure that your residential area has a power supply. If you’re in a rural setting, you have to think of an alternative power source which can be costly.

Note: Again, without a doubt, the gas version wins



When it comes to cost, the electric trimmer tends to be far less expensive as compared to its gas-powered counterpart. About the purchasing cost, electric trimmers are affordable since they don’t have large engines that cost significant amounts.

When it comes to maintenance costs, gas trimmers will require refueling, which, of course, will cost you a few bucks regularly. They also require regular lubrication to reduce friction on moving parts though this might apply to some electric models as well since the motor might need to be lubricated as well.

Note: However, though, electric versions still take the day


Noise Factor

Earlier on we mentioned that gas trimmers are immensely powerful when compared to their electric counterparts. Sadly, the more powerful the internal combustion engines are, the louder they get. This drawback is one of the few factors that give the electric weed eater an edge in this department.

Since most electric trimmers are powered by a brushless motor, they tend to be far less obnoxious. Their low noise operation is a major feature that gives you the convenience of trimming your lawn or backyard late in the evening without disturbing your neighbors with sounds.

Note: For this reason, electric versions win


Gas Emissions

Apart from noise pollution, gas trimmers rely on fossil fuel, which of course is not environmentally friendly. Although they’re powerful, users will have to deal with exhaust fumes which can turn to be an issue to people with respiratory illnesses. So, apart from wearing ear protection (due to the noise), you also have to wear a mask when trimming to protect yourself from the noxious fumes.

So, to save yourself from this hassle, an electric weed eater is arguably the perfect alternative as you only have to plug it in a power outlet. Electric trimmers don’t rely on combustion engines but rather rotating motors so there are no emissions whatsoever.

However though, if you’re eyeing for a cordless version, always choose one that relies on rechargeable batteries rather than disposable ones as disposing of the batteries can sometimes pollute the environment.

Note: Despite that, electric versions still have the edge



Finally, there’s the issue of speed. Due to the immense torque of the internal combustion engines, a gas-powered trimmer tends to accomplish the trimming job much faster than an electric trimmer. The centrifugal force of the gas trimmer is much higher causing the string to cut overgrown weeds and grass much quicker than an electric version.

When it comes to finishing and edging, most trimming professionals consider gas trimmers over electric ones since the former have the power to cut through thick vegetation leaving your fences and the edge of the grass perfectly finished.

Note:  The results; gas-powered versions take the lead


Electric vs Gas Weed Eater: Advantages & Disadvantages

Advantages of Electric Weed Eaters

  • Less Maintenance: One of the main advantages of electric weed eaters is that they’re relatively easy to maintain. The reason for this is because these appliances have fewer moving parts which translates to less maintenance.
  • Quick Start: When it comes to starting an electric trimmer, you have to go through the starting checklist that includes inspecting the fuel, the oil, the spark plug, the filters, and the pull cord. By just plugging it on the power outlet, all you need to do is simply push the trigger to start.
  • Quiet: This is one of the main factors why most people consider electric weed eaters for residential use. Due to their silent operation, users can easily trim their lawn at any time of the day without facing any complaints from their neighbors.
  • Lightweight: If you’re a senior struggling with muscle problems, arthritis, or neuropathic pains, an electric weed eater is a lightweight alternative you might opt to consider. Weighing an average of 4 pounds, these trimmers are relatively light since they don’t have any engines attached.
  • Cost-Effective: Again, if you’re looking for a less expensive way of trimming weeds on your lawn, then this is the perfect route. These trimmers are far less expensive as compared to their gas-powered counterparts.


Disadvantages of Electric Weed Eaters

  • Less Power: One of the major drawbacks of electric trimmers over their gas-powered counterparts is less power output. This is especially the case if you’re using a cordless version where the batteries have a low voltage that’s totally inefficient to accomplish a tough cutting and trimming task.
  • Too Limited: While a gas trimmer can work for nearly 8 hours before being refueled, an electric trimmer has a limited use time of about 2 to 3 hours. For corded versions, the cord might be too short to allow you to trim a larger area while for cordless versions; you have to deal with the issue of recharging the batteries, which,of course, will be time-consuming.


Advantages of Gas Weed Eaters

  • No Limitation: Due to the power of the engine, gas trimmers are not limited by anything when it comes to accomplishing their job. This gives them a major advantage over their electric counterparts.
  • More Torque: While electric weed eaters rely on the voltage and the type of wire used, gas trimmers rely on their powerful engines. With a powerful engine, the string/wire spins faster and steadier allowing the trimmer to cut through the thicker bushes with ease.
  • Durable: Just like most gas-powered appliances, gas weed eaters are built to last and can last for a much longer time as compared to electric trimmers. Most electric trimmers have electronic parts inside them that can get damaged by water or a short-circuiting.
  • Speed: Since they’re way more powerful than electric trimmers, gas weed eaters can accomplish a trimming job much faster as they’re not limited by anything.


Disadvantages of Gas Weed Eaters

  • Not Environmentally Friendly: One of the major concerns of gas weed eaters is that they’re not environmentally safe. First, they’re too noisy when operating and second, they emit a lot of exhaust fumes.
  • Costly: Another major drawback with gas trimmers is that they’re relatively costlier than electric weed eaters. Since they have lots of mechanical parts, maintenance cost is also on the higher side. Due to these reasons, gas trimmers are not the best for residential use but rather for those that are ready to bear the heavy burden.
  • Heavy: Although they’re powerful and fast, gas weed eaters are quite bulky. That’s because of the convergence of too many mechanical parts. So, if you’re someone with muscle problems or suffering from arthritis, then the weight of a gas trimmer might be quite unbearable.



Now that we’ve tabled everything in plain language, we believe it’s now way easier for you to choose what works best for you. However, though, the battle of electric vs gas weed eater is not expected to have a straightforward winner any soon.

Thankfully, with smarter versions being released, everything will meltdown to your own personal needs. For instance, if you own a small property, you can sacrifice the high torque of a gas trimmer for the lightness and calmness of an electric weed eater.

On the other hand, if you’ve got some cash to burn or maybe you crave the high torque of a gas-powered trimmer, then you know which route to take. In either way, always have an excellent reason why you’ll need to consider one and leave the other.

About 70% of the earth’s surface is basically water. Out of this, about 5% of this water is usable for drinking. While most people, especially those in the urban centers, have access to clean drinking water, a huge fraction of people around the globe do not have access to such water and have to struggle to either boil or filter contaminated water. For preppers, having one or two DIY water filtering ideas is an absolute must if you’re looking to survive in the wild. For homeowners using municipal water supply, having a quality DIY water filter can really help to turn contaminated water into clean drinkable water.

Now, regardless of the situation, you’re in, you can decide to purchase a water filter to take care of the purification process. However, why spend a huge chunk of your money while you can improvise a simple DIY water filter system that can filter your water and make it safe for drinking? So, after hours of online research, this guide has discussed three DIY water filtering processes that will purify your contaminated water.

Related Post: Inline Water Filter


DIY Water Filter System: Step by Step Guide

Why Consider a DIY Water Filter?

If you realize your municipal water is contaminated, you’re likely to wonder whether to go with a store-bought filter, a DIY water filter or to jump to bottled water. Now, if you’re in such a scenario, here are a few benefits of DIY water filters you might not be aware of.

  • Affordability:

One of the biggest benefits of choosing a homemade water filter is that you won’t spend much on anything. In fact, in most cases, you won’t spend anything at all as you only need to use items that are readily available around you. This way, you won’t have to spend too much money on bottled water or store-bought filters.

  • Flexibility:

Other than being cheap, homemade water filters allow you to choose any configuration process of your choice. Whether it’s choosing carbon, charcoal, or any other available materials, you always have tons of options available depending on your specific situation.

  • Healthier:

The main reason why you need a water filter, in the first place, is to have clean and pure drinking water. With a homemade water filter, you can easily remove unwanted impurities from the water leaving you with clean drinking water. Unlike boiling water, filtering only removes harmful toxins and bacteria from the water without interfering with essential minerals that are beneficial to the body.

  • Both User and Eco-Friendly:

Another huge benefit of homemade water filters is that they’re very easy to handle. All you need is to choose a specific filtering pattern that’s capable of producing clean water to drink. About its eco-friendly benefits, filtering water means that you don’t need to buy bottled water. This will lead to less plastic waste in the end.

  • Emergency:

Although no one wants it to happen, there are times when disaster strikes to a point of damaging some of the bare necessities such as electricity and water lines. In the case of cyclones, residents living in worst-hit regions are left without access to water and electricity. Since you can’t survive without water, filtering water from rivers or any available source is the only way you can guarantee that you have fresh water to drink.

  • Taste:

Although this is not as important, some people argue that filtered water that’s free from any impurities tend to be more pleasurable to drink.


How Can You Determine Whether Water is Safe Enough to Filter

Although water filters are affordable means of purifying your water, they cannot remove high levels of contaminants such as lead, arsenic, bacteria, and pesticides among others. Now, if you’re in the wild, it’s quite difficult to detect any impurities in the flowing water by just looking at it. The same happens to municipal tap water especially after a disaster where the available water might already be contaminated.

So, before you can move on to filter your water, here are some ways you can easily detect whether the water is safe enough to filter.

  • Using Test Kits:

One of the common ways of detecting chemicals in your water is by using a test kit. The best thing about these kits is that, other than detecting contaminants from the water, they also measure the pH of the water to test its quality.

  • Test Strips:

These are the most commonly used test kits among most preppers and campers. These small single-use strips are affordable options when it comes to detecting specific chemicals in the water. With a test strip, all you need is to immerse it into the water then compare its color with the color chart to determine the specific chemicals present.

  • Color Disk Kits:

With these test kits, all you need to do is simply add a few drops of a liquid reagent to a water sample then wait for some time. Once the water turns to a specific color, use the available color gradient plastic disk to compare the colors to determine which chemical concentration is present in the water.

  • Use Your Senses:

We all have different senses that we can use to determine whether water is safe or not to filter.

  • Sight:

Holding the water with a glass jar and inspecting it thoroughly can easily tell whether the water is safe or not. For instance, if the water is reddish, brownish or orange, that’s a clear sign of corrosion from the pipes. If there are white or tan-colored particles, then it means the water has too many minerals that make it hard water.

  • Smell:

If you’re in the wild, smelling the water can easily tell you what’s happening upstream. If the water smells bleachy, then it means there’s the use of too much chlorine upstream. If the water smells like rotten eggs, then it simply means it has bacterial contamination.

  • Taste:

Finally, you can opt to taste the water. This is a critical step however and, just to be on the safe side, don’t swallow the water. However, by tasting the water, you can easily tell a lot about it. For instance, if the water tastes bleachy, then it means it has excess chlorine. If it tastes salty, it means it has excess sulfates, which is a clear sign of industrial or agricultural waste.

Now that you’re well informed on what you need to know before filtering your water, this guide will now discuss three of the most common DIY water filtering methods that will help you get clean drinking water whether it’s at home or in the wilderness.


DIY Charcoal Water Filter

So, we will start with a charcoal water filter. First, this type of filtration system is easy to make. Secondly, charcoal is a porous carbon that reacts with oxygen to form a high absorption power. This absorption power is what helps in trapping harmful contaminants once contaminated water is passed through it.

So, What Will You Need?

  • A plastic bottle
  • Activated charcoal
  • Sand and gravel
  • A glass jar
  • Knife
  • Coffee filter
  • Piece of cloth
  • Hammer
  • Cotton balls

Step One: Cut the Bottom of the Bottle

Using your knife, cut the bottom of your water bottle to create a large opening where you will fill your filtering materials. When you’re done, poke a small hole on the bottle’s cap to create the water’s outlet during the filtering process.

If you’re in the wild, you can punch two holes near the edge of the bottle (each hole on the opposite side) to tie two threads that you’ll use to hang the bottle.

Step Two: Put the Coffee Filter

Next, take your coffee filter and put it on the mouth of the bottle. Next, tighten it with the cap to keep it intact. The coffee filter will help to hold the activated charcoal during the filtering process.

Step Three: Crush the Charcoal

Before you crush the charcoal, you can place the bottle upside down into the receiving jar. This will help to keep it stable while you fill the materials. Now wrap the charcoal pieces with a piece of cloth and crush them using a hammer until they’re completely fine.

As we mentioned earlier, charcoal has a lot of activated carbon that, if activated, can trap pollutants from the water while still removing bad odor. So, the smaller the charcoal particles are, the more effective they are in removing these contaminants.

Step Four: Start With Filling the Activated Charcoal

Now that everything is ready, you will start by filling the first quarter of the bottle with activated charcoal. Some people opt to put a small layer (about ½ inch) of cotton balls to keep the charcoal intact and catalyze its performance.

Step Five: Put in the Sand

The next layer is sand. Although you’re free to use any type of sand, always avoid using colored sand as much as possible to avoid leaking dyes to your water. To increase the layers, you can opt to add a layer of fine sand followed by another layer of coarse-grained sand. At least with more layers, water will take more time to pass through giving you more chances of having cleaner water.

Step Six: Add Gravel/Pebbles

By now, the bottle should be about halfway full. Now add the gravel to fill the remaining part of the bottle. Follow the same steps as you did with the sand by adding course gravel followed by chunky gravel at the top.

As you add the gravel, don’t be carried away to a point of forgetting to leave some space at the top. So, don’t add the gravel all the way up. At least leave about an inch or so of empty space at the top to add the water. Remember, if you fail to leave some space, the water will spill.

Step Seven: Start Pouring Your Water

At this point, everything is set up and ready to go. The bottle is full of the various layers and its resting on top of the collecting jar. You can also use a bowl, a cup, a pot, or a mug. It all depends on your choice and what’s available. One thing you should ensure though is that the collecting jar is clean.

Start pouring the water a little at a time. Since the bottle is transparent, you will be able to see the level of the water as you pour. Always give the water some time to sink before you can add more. This way, you will avoid spillage, which can make your project look messy.

Step Eight: Repeat the Procedure

This step will vary depending on how clean the water is after the first filtering process. In case you detect the water is a little bit cloudy, then you can run it back into the filtering bottle one more time to clean it.

Although I didn’t mention it in the beginning, in case you notice the water is too cloudy (muddy), you can start by decanting it to remove the excess sediments before you can begin to filter. At least this way, you won’t have to go through the lengthy process of a double filtration.

Step Nine: Boil the Water

Since filtering water alone doesn’t remove high levels of contaminants, you will have to boil the filtered water to take out those dangerous chemicals, bacteria, and microorganisms. To do this, you’ll need to boil the water for about a minute. However, if you’re in a high altitude region (let’s say above 5,000 ft. or 1,000 meters) above sea-level, then the boiling process should take about 3 minutes.

Once you’re done, leave the water to cool off before storing it in an airtight clean bottle.


DIY Bio-Sand Water Filter

Another effective and inexpensive way of filtering your water is by using a bio-sand water filter. Unlike our first method, this one is an improved version that purifies water to the extent of removing bacteria, viruses, and chemicals from the water.

After we’re through with the construction, water will go through four basic processes which are mechanical trapping, predation, absorption, and natural death. So, if you’re ready, then let’s begin.

Gather Your Supplies

  • Three buckets (at least 5 gallons each)
  • Plastic plumbing fittings (the pipes, elbows, T-joints and a sprinkler riser)
  • Sand
  • Gravel
  • Activated charcoal
  • Superglue
  • PVC cement
  • Silicon caulk

Gather the Tools

  • Hack saw
  • Sandpaper
  • Power drill
  • Eyes and ears protective gear

Step One: Cut the Buckets

Now that you’ve gathered all your tools and supplies, the first step is to kick-start the DIY project officially. To start, you’ll have to cut the bottoms of your top buckets. To do this, simply cut the bottom of the middle bucket then place it on the lid of the bottom bucket. Mark the lid of the bottom bucket to have an idea of where you’ll be cutting.

Do the same to the top bucket by placing it on the lid of the middle bucket and marking the lid to know exactly where you’ll be cutting. By the end of this process, you should stack the buckets together to have one hollow opening from the top bucket to the bottom of the third bucket.

Step Two: Insert the PVC Tubing

The second step is to cut the PVC pipes to assemble the main tube and the collecting tubes that will rest at the bottom of the water filter system. Here, you will connect the vertical main tube to the T-joint. When you’re done, connect two elbow joints, one on either side of the T-joint.

Finally, connect your collection tubes one on each elbow joint. The collection tubes should be parallel to each other at the bottom of the system (while resting horizontally). Since the collection tubes are responsible for collecting the already filtered water at the bottom of the third bucket, you’ll need to drill small holes all around their circumference. This will allow for an efficient collection of water without clogging the holes.

Step Three: Final Assembly

Before we get to the assembly, you need to use the 200-grit sandpaper to sand all the cut areas to make them uniform. You’ll also need to cut a small hole, about 7/8 inch in diameter on the top bucket. Now, once you assemble the main tube, press it to poke through the 7/8 inch hole. You can connect a small tap here to make it easier to gather the water.

After ensuring everything is sitting perfectly in its place, you can proceed to glue the entire water filter. You can also leave it outside for some time to dry up entirely.

Step Four: Gather the Gravel and Sand

So, once you’ve gathered the sand and gravel, start by washing them thoroughly to remove any contaminants. When you’re done, add the initial layer of chunky and coarse grit gravel at the very bottom of the water filter system. When you’re done add sand on top of the gravel then finalize by adding the activated carbon at the very top. Sand should occupy the largest column, as this is where most of the physical and biological processes will take place.

Now, the top layer, which is activated carbon, will strive to capture chemicals and pathogens from the water. The second sand column (commonly known as the biolayer) is where most of the processes take place. Here, the mechanical trapping starts by trapping large pathogens and bacteria between the sand particles.

Next, there’s the predation process where microorganisms (pathogens) begin feeding on each other.

In the absorption process, sand grains produce static charges that capture pathogens to prevent them from moving to the next stage.

The last process is the natural death where captured pathogens are denied food and oxygen leading to starvation then death.

Step Five: Add Water

Since everything is already set, you can now add water and wait for the purification process to take place. At this point, you can also elevate the water filter system then add a water catchment basin just below the tap.


Xylem Water Filter

In the remaining part of this guide, we will discuss one of the most unique DIY water filters that is trending in recent days. In most cases, we tend to focus more on advanced technology and fail to look back on what Mother Nature has patented.

Following numerous research, Rohit Karnik alongside his team, at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, discovered that water could easily be filtered using plant xylem. In this process, all that is needed is xylem from the sapwood. Xylem is the porous tissue in a plant (usually covered by the plant’s bark) that’s used to transport fluids.

So, during the process, all you need to do is cut a small piece of sapwood then peel off the bark. Fasten the xylem inside a tube (most preferably a PVC tube) then secure it with a hose clamp. From there, pour small portions of water at the top of the tube and let it drip through the other side slowly.

Bypassing water through the xylem, you’re able to remove nearly 99% of E-coli bacteria. Although this technique has been confirmed to remove bacteria from the water, one of its major drawbacks is that it’s too slow.

However, considering its super-fast setup and high efficiency, this technique is an absolute must for campers as it can prove to be the last remaining option in case things get dire.



Apart from the three techniques we’ve discussed in this guide, there are so many other DIY water filters you can consider to purify your drinking water. Some are affordable; others expensive and several are unique like in the case of the xylem water filter.

Overall, the type of water filter technique you choose should be able to purify your water whether it’s at home or in the wilderness. In case you already have a DIY water filter, then you shouldn’t panic. Instead, put it to the test and I bet you’ll be surprised at how truly effective it will be in purifying your water.

If you’re a parent with teenage kids, then I believe you’ve got a long story to tell. From Frito-Lay’s Tazos to Pokémon Mania, these transient fads have caused headaches to most parents following numerous demands from their stubborn kids. Today, there’s the Beyblade which is another kids game that has taken the center stage in the world of gaming. Not only will your nagging kids ask for the game, but they’ll also ask for a quick tutorial on how to play this spinning game. So, whether you’re a parent or simply someone curious to learn the various Beyblade types, then worry not as you’re in the right place.

Now, taking your time to understand the concept of the different types of Beyblades when playing this spinning game is an imperative step that can help parents and collectors alike to select the right Beys that suit their specific playing strategy and combat preference. Therefore, identifying the various types of Beyblades and their specific parts can prove valuable in winning battles as it can help you to easily customize your Beys to have an edge over your opponents.


So, What’s the Beyblade Game?

Before we get to the different types of Beyblades, it’s always good to get acquitted with the game. Briefly, this is generally a spinning game that’s played by two players called battlers in head-to-head matches inside an arena called a Beystadium.

The spinning tops are used one at a time inside the arena and are distinguished by their varying features such as their colors, stickers, and design. To win, your opponent’s Beyblade should run out of endurance and stop spinning, burst, or be knocked out of the stadium.

The Beyblade game was released back in 1999 and has grown to become a widely popular game in the toy world with over 100 million pieces already being sold globally. Hugely responsible for Beyblade’s popularity are the 2001 – 2011 anime franchises bearing the same Beyblade name with themes that revolve around the game itself.


Parts of the Beyblade

Since the release of the Beyblade Metal Fusions, most recent Beyblades come with a combination of five different accessories that are combined together to determine the performance of the various Beyblades in the Beystadium. So, to give you an edge over your opponents when playing this historic spinning game, here are the five different parts of a Beyblade that can be swapped to customize your Bey tops.

  • Energy Layer: This is the topmost piece of a Beyblade and it’s the one that gets into contact with your opponents during a match. It usually comes in different colors and shapes to represent the different types of Beyblades.
  • Forge Disk: Also known as the weight disk or the middle disk, the forged disk is a weighted steel disk that rests just beneath the Beyblade top. It comes in different weights and shapes that make it a key component that determines the outcome of a match. This disk can be swapped depending on the level of difficulty changing its role from a defense to an attack, or from stamina to a balance type at will.
  • Spin Gear: Also known as the GT Chip, this part is usually responsible for the direction of rotation of the Beyblade top. Therefore, it’s the one responsible for whether the top will rotate left or right. it’s also commonly found on Hypersphere tops.
  • Performance Tip: Finally, there’s the performance tip or the driver. This last piece is the one that gets into contact with the Beystadium during a match. Its base has different shapes that play a significant role in the performance of the Beyblade hence their name. In most cases, the base can be smooth to aid in mobility, circular to aid in balancing and needle-like to provide the right speed and stamina.


Types of Beyblades Explained

Now that you’re familiar with the different parts of a Beyblade, our next section will be discussing the various types of Beyblades. Concisely, Beyblades are classified into four categories depending on their ability to attack, defend, endure, and balance. With that said, here are the four main types of Beyblades.

  • 1. Attack Type Beyblade

Also known as a striker or offensive Beyblade, the attack type Beyblade is a very imperative Bey top that plays a significant role in determining the outcome of a battle. Designed with a flat performance tip, this Bey top is known for its high speed and lethal attacking hits against its opponents.

Although it has poor stamina, the attack type Beyblade can be customized with other high performing Beyblade parts such as the new ignition performance tip and the destroy dash driver to give it a unique combination of stamina life with great attacking power.

Still about its impressive power, the attack type Beyblade has an energy layer built from a combination of plastic and rubber materials. During attacks, the rubber blades tend to open up to strengthen its centrifugal force that’s needed to either burst or knock out opponent Beyblades.


  • Attack type Beys have some of the widest layers in the Beyblade game. This gives them a greater chance of attacking their stamina type opponents within a short time.
  • Another advantage of these Beyblades is their heavyweights, especially when customized with the best drivers and GT Chips.
  • When combined with the best destroy dash drivers, the attack type Bey can have impressive amounts of stamina that can burst or knockout most of its opponent Beyblades.


The main purpose of the attack type Beyblades is generally to defeat the opposition by bursting them, knocking them out of the Beystadium, or by depleting all of their stamina. But, how do they do this? Since they lack endurance, these Beyblades must attack at a rather fast pace to avoid losing their stamina. The first advantage is the plastic fast blade bases that can be customized to give them the right speed, balance, and stamina.

The second strategy is using hybrid electric drivers that can spin in both directions in mid-battles. This potential for a reverse attack is highly imperative as it allows them to deplete their opponents’ stamina within seconds.

Finally, attack type Beyblades tend to use attack rings or fusion wheels with spikes and protrusions all around to create a fierce impression that’s enough to outperform their opponents.


  • 2. Defense Type Beyblade

In a nutshell, defense type Beyblades are the heaviest. Their energy layers are usually smooth and rounded to deny opposition attack type Beys a chance to grip and knock them out. They also have rounded performance tips with ball bearing systems for immense stability and endurance.

Now, the defense type Beyblade has one key focus—to avoid being knocked out of the stadium by the lethal attack type Beys. Though it has moderate stamina, it has a higher endurance level that allows it to deflect lethal attacks from attack Beys without losing its spin power. Just like the attack type Beyblades, the defense types can also be customized to improve their performance and effectiveness.


  • These Beyblades have rounded tips that allow them to recover much faster from attacks.
  • Additionally, their wide balls on the tips tend to make them stronger and hard to beat during a match.
  • When used as a combo with Metal Face Bolts, defense type Beys can be very heavy and almost impossible to burst or knockout of the Beystadium.
  • Their smooth and rounded energy layers are another huge plus that denies enemy attack type Beys a chance to grip and attack.


We’ve already mentioned that the defense type Beyblade is tasked to offer defensive reinforcement when playing. Although they’re easily paired with Metal Face Bolts to increase their weights for more defensive power, these Beys are open to other smart customizations that can make them defenders and partial counter attackers at the same time.

Since they tend to lose their balance, combos such as MF-2 basalt GB145 / TR145 / C145RS / RB / CS Bull can help to employ some offensive power to attack opponent Beys while still defending. Now, we all understand that defense types have less stamina making them highly susceptible to attacks by stamina Beyblades.

Thankfully, to compensate for this drawback, defense types can be combined with high rotation spin tracks such as the 230, GB145, TR145, C145, and BD145 to make it harder for opposing Beys to reach their power rings or fusion wheels.


  • 3. Stamina Type Beyblade

Formerly known as the endurance or the survival Beyblade, the stamina type Bey is another member of the Beyblade franchise that’s tasked to endure hardships and stress during a game. While the defense Beyblade features a wider ball-like performance tip, this one has a thin needle-like tip that reduces friction between the blade and the Beystadium for a more enduring advantage.

Now, due to the raised design of the sharp performance tips, Stamina Beyblades have bad stability. To solve this, bladers opt to generally use defensive type performance tips such as WD, EWD, and D to compensate for the low balance. Something else about these Beyblades is that most of their weight is distributed towards the edges to help maintain their centrifugal force.

Just like the rest of the Beyblades we’ve mentioned, the stamina type can come as a Hybrid Wheel System, a 4D System, or a Zero-G System. It can also be paired with a variety of forge disks and performance tips to give it a decent attacking and defensive edge.


  • Stamina types of Beyblades have sharper performance tips that reduce friction between them and the stadium making them last longer on the arena.
  • The sharp tips allow these Beys to stand higher than the rest of the Bey types making it slightly harder to get stacked.
  • When combined with defense type tips such as WD, EWD, and D, Stamina type Beys can gather more stability giving them an edge over defense type Beyblades.


Just as we’ve already mentioned, the Stamina type Beyblade is intended to out-spin its opponent’s thanks to its high endurance levels. Some, such as the Scythe Kronos T125EDS, are easily paired with PC Frames (fixed on the metal frame) to gather incredibly more stamina from the free-spinning PC Frame. They also take advantage of their fusion wheels, which minimizes contact from other Beys for increased endurance.

Due to their enduring characteristics, these Beys usually have an edge over Defense types. However, though, their thin fusion wheels (in an attempt to reduce friction and contact from other Beys) make them partially susceptible to mild attacks thrown at them by Defense type Beyblades. Therefore, to solve this, bladers must customize their Stamina Beys with BD145, B:D, and AD145 to give them a more defensive edge.


  • 4. Balance Type Beyblade

Lastly, in our Beyblade type’s category, there’s the Balance type Beyblade also known as the combination type Bey. Unlike the rest of the Beyblades, this one is more of a combination of the other three. Some balance type Beyblades combine the features and performance of two Beyblades (such as Attack and Defense or Attack/Defense and Stamina). However, most of these Beys generally combine the performance of all the other three Beys.

The best thing about these Beyblades is that they’re easily customized with the features of the other three Beys making them stronger towards your opponents. Although they’re usually well-rounded in every category, these Beyblades are more like “Jack of all Trades and a Master of None” as they don’t hold any particular strength suit as the other Beys do. This alone puts them at a higher risk of being knocked out by Stamina type Beys as they lack that aggressive attacking and defensive agility.


  • They can be combined with various accessories such as Face Bolts, Energy Rings, and Fusion Wheels to give them a more defensive or attacking edge.
  • They can be used as a way to neutralize the weak points of particular Beyblades. For instance, Defense types are weaker against Stamina while Attack types are weaker against Defense types. So, with that in mind, you can easily customize your Balance type Beyblade to win matches.


Although the Balance type Beyblade isn’t strong in its defense nor lethal in its attack, customizing it with a variety of performance tips, energy rings, and fusion rings can help to unlock its full potential. Taking examples of Death and Hades (which are the best Balance type Fusion Wheels), pairing them with a Balance type Beyblade will give it an excellent defensive mode as well as an offensive appearance with a grinding ability to smash attack its opponents.



So, whether it’s you or your kids that want to give this iconic spinning game a try, then this short guide has offered you everything that’s needed to dominate the competition. As you can see, four main types of Beyblades dominate this game. Since we’ve discussed each of these Beyblades in terms of their performance, uses, and advantages, all you need to do next is to collect each of these pieces to make your gaming experience more fun-filled.

While you do that, always keep in mind that Beyblades come in various versions ranging from the Magnacore system (MG), the Engine Gear System (EG), the Heavy Metal System (HMS), the Hybrid Wheel System (HWS), the 4D System, the Zero-G System, the Burst System, the Extreme Battle System to the smallest miniature scale version, the Beyblade Burst Micro.

Although the best Beyblades are usually a combination of existing Beys, always choose the latest versions to give your kids a wider gaming experience.

If you own a vehicle in the 4×4 category (SUV, Jeep, or a pickup), then running boards are inevitable add-ons you can’t resist. You see, most vehicles in this category are typically a foot higher from the ground as compared to most other autos making it challenging to get on and off. In fact, it’s extremely challenging and risky if you’re a senior, a short motorist, or someone with a disability. Therefore, to give yourself a boost on to your 4×4 auto while still accentuating the exterior looks of your car, running boards are generally a must-have. But, what are running boards exactly?

Running boards have been around for several centuries now. Though introduced in the 17th century (where they were installed in carriages), their necessity became evident in the 20th century where they were equipped on automobiles of the time. These vintage cars had tall narrow tires that allowed them to traverse through unpaved terrains with ease. Since these vehicles had high bodies, running boards were necessary to help people get on and off.


What Are Running Boards?

If you happen to ask most people what running boards are, they’ll say they don’t know them even after having them right on their SUVs or pickups. Now running boards or footboards are generally structures that extend around the perimeter of your vehicle. They’re usually located just below the doors and are mounted in a way that they flush against the rocker panels of your car.

Their purpose is to provide some convenience when getting in and out of vehicles with a high clearance such as most trucks and SUVs. However though, following rapid popularity in aftermarket running boards in the market, most motorists are taking this advantage to accentuate the integrity of their cars (though you have to confirm with your car manufacturer to avoid voiding your car’s warranty).

Other than that, running boards are protective add-ons that shield your car from various forms of debris. You see, when you’re driving, your car’s front tires are likely to pick and kick various forms of road debris such as dirt, tiny rocks, and nails. If you’re not careful, such debris can be thrown high enough to scratch your windows or damage the side panels.

Running boards can also act as exterior doormats where you can wipe the soles of your footwear before entering the car. Since they’re designed with a gripping surface, they also improve traction to prevent slipping which can cause injuries.

Finally, I would like to mention something about sidebars just to make everything clear. Now, running boards generally flush against your truck’s rocker panels. They’re also wide with a flatter profile. On the other hand, sidebars (also called nerf bars, side steps, and step bars) are tubular shaped and are mounted a few inches away from the vehicle’s body. They’re made of either steel or aluminum and span all the way from the front door to the cabin area with slip-resistant rubber grips on each door.

While most running boards are factory-installed, sidebars on the other hand are aftermarket modifications that serve as running boards and as add-ons to boost your car’s integrity.


Types of Running Boards

Since we’ve already discussed what exactly running boards are, the next part of this article will be a comprehensive discussion about the various types of running boards.

  • Standard Running Boards

These types of conventional running boards are the ones you’ll find fitted on most vehicles. They’re the most popular and are usually factory-installed whenever you buy a new truck or SUV. These running boards are also referred to as wheel-to-wheel running boards. That’s because their lengths span between the front and the rear tires of your vehicle.

Depending on your taste, you can get these running boards in either a one-piece section or two separate adjoining sections that can be fitted at the exact length of your truck. For the case of the two-piece applications, the first section has a length that corresponds to that of the front under the cab section while the second piece has its length corresponding to the rear under the cab section.

  • Custom Molded Running boards

Although these types of running boards are expensive, most people still consider them due to their decorative advantage. They’re usually used on vehicles with a high clearance such as trucks, Jeeps, and SUVs to offer a more modern sleeker appearance.

These running boards are usually reinforced with aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, rubber, or diamond-plate steel to give them a higher range of UV-resistance as well as resistance against regular wear. Besides, these types of running boards are sculpted to match the unique contours of your vehicle and can be painted to match your truck’s paint job. They also have deluxe extra-wide slip-resistant grips that reduce slips to prevent cases of injuries.

Since these types of running boards are basically aftermarket enhancements, installation involves mounting them on your truck’s custom fit-brackets.

  • Aluminum and Diamond-Plate Steel Running Boards

Most molded running boards only focus on style and aesthetics and fail to do well in enduring a higher weight capacity. However, if you’re looking for running boards that are tough enough to endure greater weights, then those made from aluminum and steel are worth your time.

Made from industrial-strength materials, these types of running boards match the big-scale style of most trucks and SUVs. One huge advantage is their ability to endure greater weights of up to 500 lbs. Their footsteps are made of textured diamond plate patterns that provide excellent traction for a much safer and secure footing regardless of the weather condition.

  • Lighted Running Boards

These types of running boards come with a knockout combination of style and functionality. They have LED lights that give your vehicle a stylish glow when you open the doors. That’s all thanks to the built-in wiring that connects the running boards to the ajar sensor to activate the lights when the doors are opened.

Other than their stylish advantage, these types of running boards illuminate the stepping surface as well as the ground underneath to help you find your footing in case you’re stepping out of the vehicle on uneven terrains. Other than the LED lighting, anything else about these running boards is pretty much the same as the rest of the running boards we’ve already discussed.

  • Retracting Running Boards

There are times when the convenience of running boards is inevitable but you still wish to maintain the soft looks of your vehicle’s side clearance. If you’re in such a dilemma, then there’s no reason to worry as there’s the option of installing motorized or power-operated running boards.

Such running boards, which include the AMP Research Powerstep are designed with a centralized control module that’s placed under your car’s hood then wired to powered motors on the bracket ends. The whole system is then connected to your electric door sensors to help in activating and deactivating the running boards whenever you open or lock the doors.

What this means is that whenever you open your car’s doors, the running board swings out and retracts once the doors are shut. Since they don’t cause any inconvenience when the car is moving, their steps usually extend much farther out to provide a wider stepping platform. This is quite different from their fixed running board counterparts.


Pros & Cons of Running Boards


  • Provides a Step up onto Raised Vehicles:

If you own a raised vehicle such as an SUV, Jeep, or a truck, then it’s imperative to install running boards. Not only do they make it easier for you to get on and off your vehicle, but their lower steps also help to provide some boost to kids and elderly passengers who might be having some mobility issues.

  • Protection Against Debris:

When I mention protection against tiny rocks and debris, I believe most people will wonder what mud flaps are made for right? Now, although mud flaps are specifically designed for this, most motorists perceive running boards as an added advantage.

This is more evident when off-roading where your car’s tires tend to shoot all kinds of road debris (such as tiny rocks, gravel, and nails) to your car’s side panels and windows. If this is prolonged, then it can cause mild to severe scratches on your car’s body paint thus lowering its integrity in case you wish to sell it.

  • They Keep Your Car’s Interior Clean:

It’s always said that your car is a home with wheels. So, to keep the interior clean, you need to add a kind of a doormat where passengers can step on and wipe dirt off their feet before getting on.

Running boards such as the DeeZee Rough Step, the Dorman Chrome Truck, and the Luverne Grip Step are some of the best running boards for wiping your footwear as they have perforated grate patterns that remove dirt and mud from your footwear (except heals) before entering a vehicle.

  • Enhances Your Car’s Appearance:

Lastly, yet importantly, running boards are among the few aftermarket accessories that completely transform the appearance of your truck. Unlike sports cars, trucks offer a few options when it comes to transforming their appearance with running boards being one of those.

So, with a set for both sides, your truck will have a whole new look that will catch the attention and the eyes of any car enthusiast. In addition, running boards can help to increase your truck’s resale value, which will actually improve your chances of landing a willing buyer.



  • AccumulatesDirt:

Although one of their key tasks is to keep your car’s interior clean, they have a tendency of accumulating dirt, snow, and other debris making your vehicle appear dirtier than it really is.

  • They Have a Low Weight Limit:

Another downside of running boards is their weight limit. Although the material and the design of the running board do matter, plastic molded running boards, in particular, tend to have a very low weight limit that can cause major inconveniences in case you need to carry heavy senior passengers.

  • Affect Ground Clearance:

This is especially true if you’re installing running boards in a car that has a low profile. This will generally make it harder for you to get under your truck or SUV in case you need to fix something.


So, What Type of Running Board Should You Get?

Now that you’re fully equipped with solid information regarding running boards, the final step is to decide exactly which route to take. Here, the answer to the question “which type should I get” will greatly depend on the reason why you need the running boards in the first place.

If you’re getting them for aesthetic reasons, then those molded from plastic are the best option. That’s because they’re affordable and can conform to your vehicle’s curves. The only downside is that they’re weak and less durable.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for something that can offer substantial support alongside that extra boost, then those versions made of steel or molded plastic with an aluminum baseboard are the best. Though a hefty investment, these types of running boards are generally the best when it comes to safety.

Lastly, if you’re not a fan of running boards but you like the amount of convenience they offer, then you might think of adding the retracting version. These are designed to stretch out and retract back in whenever the doors are opened or closed.



As you can see, there are many benefits associated with installing the right running boards. Not only do they act as ladders for short passengers, but they also act as doormats and as cool enhancements for your truck or SUV. The most important thing however, is to have a reason as to why you’re installing them. This way, you can easily find the right flavor that will work for you.

Finally, once you decide on what to buy, always make a point of hiring a professional installer to fit the running boards for you to avoid ruining your car’s warranty. Also, this can help to prevent future accidents as running boards can easily dislodge from their mounting points if they’re not fitted correctly.

Just like the rest of your car’s enhancements, such as chrome exhausts, spotters, and custom suspensions set-ups, your car’s leather seats are important add-ons that enhance your auto’s integrity. Since your car is your home on wheels, your leather car seats can easily get stained by pet litter, spills, and leaks caused by kids. Now, if you’re a busy office worker in a professional setting, learning how to clean leather car seats is quite inevitable as it can save you from embarrassment in case your colleagues ask for a ride.

Now, we all know that leather car seats are luxurious add-ons that help to enhance the appearance of your car. Though beautiful, the main challenge creeps in when it comes to cleaning and maintaining their lasting beauty without causing any damages. Thankfully, in a bid to find the solution, we’ve consulted expert detailers with years of combined experience to create this ultimate guide. In this guide, we’ll not only discuss how to clean your car’s leather seats but also how to maintain and condition them.

Related Post: Seat Covers for Jeep Wrangler

How to Clean Leather Car Seats: DIY Guide

First, Let’s Discuss the Different Types of Leather

Learning the different types of leather is a critical step in finding the right way to clean your car’s leather seats. Thankfully, there are only four types of leather used on most car seats in the market so there’s nothing to worry about. They include Aniline leather, Semi-Aniline leather, Full Grain, and Corrected Grain Leather.

  • Aniline Leather:

This type of leather uses the finest hides that give it a rich color and soft touch. It also has a luxurious appeal that makes it synonymous with classic cars such as Ferrari. The only downside to aniline leather however, is that it doesn’t have a protective coating on its surface making it susceptible to regular wear. There has also been a decreased use of this type of leather so it’s quite unlikely to find it being used in modern car seats.

  • Semi-Aniline Leather:

This type of seat leather is usually considered an improvement of aniline leather. It’s often colored with aniline dyes then supplied with a protective coat to protect the dye and the leather fabric from regular wear. This type of leather enjoys the fluffiness of regular leather and it’s more resistant to spills, scratches, and wear thus protecting your car’s seats.

  • Full-Grain Leather:

Semi-Aniline leather and Full-Grain leather are usually found in luxurious and most high-end cars. Here, the leather texture itself is not corrected but rather supplied with more protective coating and pigmentation to enhance its beauty.

  • Corrected Grain Leather:

Just as its name suggests, this type of leather has been corrected thus giving it a slightly different feel from the other three leather fabrics. However, though, one huge advantage with this type of leather is that it’s the most resistant to wear. That makes it the best for car owners with kids and pets.


Which Important Tips Should You Remember When Cleaning Leather Car Seats?

In case you spill something on your car’s leather seats, there are those proven do’s and don’ts you’re supposed to observe. These tips offer a smart way of removing stains from your car’s leather seats without damaging the fabric. Let’s find them out.


  • Whenever you spot a stain on your leather car seats, always start by blotting the stain using a microfiber towel. Since microfiber is soft and exceptionally absorbent, it doesn’t scratch your seats meaning there are fewer chances of damage.
  • Before you deep clean your seats, always vacuum them first thoroughly to remove abrasives, sand, and loose grime that can cause scratches.
  • Always clean slowly in small sections. This helps to minimize strain, which can cause discoloration of the dye.
  • Always use non-toxic cleaning agents while avoiding commercial chemical cleaners at any cost.
  • Finally, always clean and condition your leather car seats regularly to maintain their luxurious look.


  • Although it might sound logical, avoid using petroleum or wax-based conditioners on your leather car seats. Such conditioners usually cause residual buildup which eventually ruins the finish on your leather making it look dull.
  • Don’t wait until wet residue, such as spills, dry up on your leather seat. Use a dry microfiber cloth instead to blot them ASAP or else they’ll form stains that will be virtually impossible to remove.
  • If your seats have perforated leather, avoid spraying cleaning agents directly. Instead, spray the cleaners on a microfiber cloth then use it to wipe the affected areas clean.
  • For the case of deep cleaning, avoid using hard-bristled brushes and instead use soft-bristled brushes to clean the areas.
  • Finally, don’t shy away when it comes to prices. Since leather car seats are expensive, don’t expect to find cheap cleaners. Always be ready to spend when it comes to purchasing the right cleaners for leather seats.

Now that we’ve mentioned some basics, this tutorial will now go straight to the topic where we’ll discuss how to clean your car’s leather seats. Here, we will discuss how to clean light stains, and tough stains. In the end, we’ll discuss some proven DIY methods you can try at home to clean your car’s leather seats.


Gather Your Supplies

Whether you’re cleaning spills from drinks, grease stains, or body oils/sweat, here are the main supplies you’ll need.

  • All-purpose cleaner
  • Soft-bristled brush
  • Non-abrasive scrub pads
  • Soft absorbent microfiber cloths
  • Car leather conditioner


Part One: Cleaning the Seats

Step One

Check for Perforations: Before you can commence with the cleaning process, the first step you need to take is to inspect the seats to see whether there are any holes or perforated areas. Although it’s considered an aesthetic design feature, perforated leather seats, especially heated seats, can demand a totally different cleaning procedure to prevent water buildup in the holes.

So, if your car’s leather seats are perforated, the cleaning process will require you to use damp non-abrasive scrub pads and brushes instead of spraying the cleaner directly on the seat. However, if the seats are not perforated, then you can spray the cleaner directly.

Step Two

Vacuum the Seats: The next step is to vacuum the seats. The reason why this step comes first before you start the deep cleaning is to remove any abrasive such as sand particles to prevent scratching the leather and causing punctures.

So, to vacuum the seats, you’ll have to use a wet/dry vacuum with a soft-bristled brush attachment. Vacuum the seats slowly and carefully while paying more attention to the seams and perforations. In case a blower is available, you can also make good use of it by blowing particles that have gathered in between the seams.

Step Three

Remove any Surface Dirt: Before you begin the deep cleaning process, it’s wise to inspect the surface of your seats first before you can clean them. Simply spray a microfiber cloth with a cleaning solution then use it to wipe the seats. By wiping off the surface dirt, the stains will be more visible making it easier for you to clean them.

Step Four

Start the Deep Cleaning Process: But before you start, it’s always a good practice to peruse through the manual to see which cleaners are recommended for your specific leather seats. You can also check the manufacturer’s website to see what they’ve said regarding cleaning your car’s interior. If you feel like you’re not convinced, then you can try to spot clean a hidden section of your seat’s leather to see the reaction. In case the results are impressive, then you can proceed with the cleaning.

So, assuming your car’s leather seats are not perforated, simply start by spraying the leather cleaning solution straight on the surface and use a soft-bristled brush to scrub the tough stains. Always scrub in a soft gentle motion to agitate the dirt and bring it to the surface. Remember, the last thing you’d wish is to scratch your leather seats so you need to be really careful.

Although we’ve already mentioned it severally, cleaning perforated leather seats will demand you to spray the cleaning solution on your brush then scrub rather than spraying directly on the seat.

Step Five

Wipe the Seats: Once you’re through with the scrubbing, the next stage is to clean each leather seat with a soft microfiber cloth. This will help to soak any excess cleaning solution from your seats. However, if you notice stubborn spot leftovers on the seats, then you might consider repeating the scrubbing step once more then wipe the seats with another clean microfiber cloth.


Part Two: Conditioning the Seats

Step One

Select the Right Conditioner: The last thing you’d wish to do here is to choose a low-quality conditioner that will ruin your luxurious leather seats. Besides, you should avoid choosing conditioners that contain wax, silicone, or petroleum in their formulation. Such conditioners can discolor your seats especially at a time when you need to retain their natural oils.

So, what’s the best conditioner for leather seats? Well, always choose a water-based conditioner with the right pH balance. This will help to restore your leather seats’ natural oils after a deep scrubbing. Just like your skin, leather can essentially dry up after a deep cleaning. To replenish its natural oils, you need to find the right conditioner. In fact, a conditioner with sunscreen as part of its formulation can work perfectly well.

Step Two

Apply the Leather Conditioner: Start by performing a spot test to see the outcome. If you’re convinced, then apply the conditioner on a dry microfiber cloth, or a sponge, then start rubbing it on the leather seats in a gentle massaging motion. Apply the leather conditioner sparingly as too much of it can make your seats greasy.

In the case of perforated seats, you need to be even more careful as applying too much conditioner can clog the holes.

Step Three

Drying Time: After a lengthy process of vacuuming, wiping, scrubbing and conditioning, it’s now time to give your seats a little time to breathe. As a rule of thumb, always find a shady area to park your car to prevent your “healing” seats from being interfered with by the harmful UV rays. Here, you can let your car sit for about 12 hours.

Step Four

Buff the Seats: Once the conditioner has entirely soaked up into your leather seats, it’s now time to buff them up. This is done by using a dry microfiber cloth and rubbing it gently on the seats in a circular motion. Wipe off any excess conditioner until the seats are sparkling clean. Once you’re done, you can now sit back and admire your hard work and effort.


Are There Any DIY Options You Can Consider?

Although it’s not the best idea, those of you who dislike chemical cleaners can take the DIY cleaning route of using cheap homemade solutions to clean the seats. Here are two proven methods you might consider.

Mixing Vinegar, Olive Oil, and Water

In this method, all you need to do is add a ½ cup of olive oil to ¼ cup of white vinegar then mix it with a small portion of water inside a spray bottle. From there, spray the mixture on affected areas and let it soak for about 5 minutes before wiping it with a clean dry microfiber cloth. Now, although this method is effective, it doesn’t seem to work well on perforated leather seats as you’re not supposed to spray any liquids directly. Other than that, this method can yield positive results.

Toothpaste or Baking Soda

This is our next DIY method that works as an alternative to spraying vinegar + olive oil + water solution directly to your seats. If your car’s leather seats are perforated, then you can consider this alternative method. The first step is to spread toothpaste or baking soda directly on the affected areas.

Next, use a damp microfiber cloth to rub against the toothpaste or baking soda then let it sit for a few hours. Once it has totally dried up, wipe off the powder/toothpaste with a clean dry microfiber cloth or simply vacuum it up.

Next, use another damp cloth to remove any toothpaste or baking soda stains in the area then dry it all up with a dry cloth.

To prevent fading and cracking, use the right leather conditioner (especially those with sunscreen formulation). This also helps to replenish your leather seats’ natural oils making them look young and new.



Regardless of whether you’ve chosen the professional or the DIY cleaning route, cleaning your car’s leather seats is a sensitive endeavor that should be left to professional detailers. However, if you decide to do it at home, then ensure that you follow this ultimate guide to the latter.

Remember, leather is a porous fabric that absorbs any oils and greases it gets into contact with. It’s also susceptible to damage if you don’t use the right cleaners and conditioners. Finally, leather seats should not be cleaned and conditioned often. Doing it a few times in a year is enough to avoid ruining the integrity of your car’s seats.

Are you an avid camper or perhaps a busy folk planning to go off the grid with family and friends during the weekend? Whatever the case is, one of the greatest dilemmas most people face is whether to carry their home comforts in an RV. Appliances such as your laptop, TV set, microwave, hairdryer, phone/tablet, and a coffee maker are essential when RVing. However, most of them rely on the 120V AC to function. Since your RV’s standard battery cannot supply enough current to power them, one question that will definitely cross your mind is “what size inverter do I need for my RV”.

Now, when we speak of size, we don’t necessarily mean the physical dimensions. Instead, what we mean is the capacity of the inverter in terms of the amount of wattage it can output. In this short guide, we will break down this context in plain words to help you understand how much is just enough.


What Size Inverter Do I Need for My RV: Step-by-Step Guide

First, What’s an Inverter?

Although there are a few RV models that have factory-installed inverters, most of them are equipped with converters instead. Now, these two terms look basically the same and can be confusing at times. An RV converter on its side is designed to convert 120V AC (from your generator or shore power) into 12V DC to either charge your RV’s battery or power some of your RV’s low voltage components such as LED lights and car cigarette lighter.

When it comes to the inverter, this electronic module does the opposite. Unlike the converter, this one converts the 12V DC current from your RV’s battery to 120V AC current to resemble the standard household electricity.


How Does it Work?

Just as we mentioned earlier, an inverter is tasked to invert your battery’s 12V DC into 120V AC current to power most of your household appliances present in your RV. So, if you choose a large enough inverter, then it simply means that it will supply enough current to power all your appliances.

Now, one rule of thumb that applies to electricity is that the moment you invert your battery power, you increase it 10× from 12V DC to 120V AC. This causes a 10× increase in the input amps as well, meaning that your a/c appliances, such as your hairdryer, will draw more amperage from your RV’s battery.

For instance, let’s assume you have a 1500 watts appliance that draws 12.5 amps at 120V. Once you invert the power from d/c to a/c, such an appliance will draw 125 amps from the battery (a 10× increase).

Now, since you’ll be drawing a lot of current from your RV’s battery (enough to deplete it), you will need a converter charger to convert the household 120V (AC power) into 12V DC to recharge your battery. The recharging can be done via shore power or simply generator power in case you’re off the grid (in a campsite).


What is Modified Sine and True Sine Wave Inverters?

Something else you need to know about inverters before you can decide which size will work perfectly well for you is the modified and sine wave inverter flavors. Now, if you’re new to RV inverters, some of these terms are likely to leave you scratching your head in bewilderment. However, you don’t have to worry as we will explain everything in plain words.

Now, a modified sine wave (MSW) inverter is an older technology that was developed years back as a cost-saving solution following extremely high prices of the true sine wave inverters. Although they are efficient enough to power many standard appliances (such as motors, non-digital appliances, lights, lamps, pumps, and various power tools), their waveform can cause intermittent issues when it comes to powering modern appliances such as those with motors and digital timers.

Since you’re likely to carry your laptop, LED TV set, a coffee maker and a digital microwave, a modified sine wave inverter might not power these appliances at all. For this reason alone, a true sine wave inverter will definitely be the only logical option.

Unlike the traditional MSW inverters, the true sine wave (TSW) inverters are designed to generate a cleaner output analogous that’s indistinguishable from the normal household current. The current is clean and sufficiently large to power all of your home appliances including those that draw a lot of power.

However, just as we mentioned earlier, the only trade-off with these two types of inverters is the price as TSW inverters can get really expensive.


What Size Inverter is Enough?

Now that we’ve mentioned everything you need to know about inverters, we believe it will now be easier for you to figure out the math of how much is enough for you. In this last section, we will briefly discuss three factors you’ll need to keep in mind when choosing the best inverter for your RV. These are:

  • The type of appliances you have
  • The available RV battery
  • How long you’ll run the appliances

  • 1# Type of Appliances

The first thing you need to figure out when choosing the right RV inverter is the total wattage your appliances will need for them to operate. Just to be on the safe side, always make sure that you pick an inverter with higher wattage (about 15-20%) than the total wattage of your appliances.

Now, let’s assume the total wattage of all your appliances is 2050 watts. To determine the size of your inverter, you’ll need to add the extra overhead (in this case 15% to 20%) to the total wattage of your appliances. So, you’ll have;

20/100 × 2050 = 410 watts   [We chose to go with an extra overhead of 20%]

410 + 2050 = 2460 watts

So, your RV will require an inverter with a power rating of 2460 watts. Since you can’t find an inverter with this exact power rating, you will need to get a model with the closest higher power than this which in this case, will be 3000 watts.

Although you didn’t ask, the reason why we added the extra overhead is to mitigate the peak demand of some of your appliances. Now, if you happen to switch on any appliance that has a motor or a compressor (such as a microwave or a fridge), it will start at a higher peak rating for several seconds, then lower significantly.

This brief burst of power is what is called the peak rating and it can easily shut down or damage your inverter if it’s unable to meet this high power demand.


  • 2# Check Your RV Battery

Once you’ve selected the right inverter for your specific appliances, the next checkbox you’ll need to tick is whether your RV battery bank is large enough to power your inverter. As a rule of thumb, every 100Ah of deep cycle battery is enough to power 1000 watts DC to AC inverter. So, if you have a 200Ah or a 320Ah deep cycle battery or lithium battery, then it should manage to power a 2000 watts or a 3000 watts inverter respectively.


3# How Long Will You Run the Appliances?

To determine how long you can run your RV appliances, you need to first figure out the type of battery you’re using. Here, you should pick a battery from a reputable manufacturer with details of how long it can output maximum Amps.

Some reputable brands such as Revolution Power 100Ah can deliver consistent power to run a 1000 watts inverter for about an hour. Let’s say you have an appliance (it could be a laptop, a light bulb, a TV set, a ceiling fan, or a Smartphone) that draws 50 watts continuously. So, this will equate to about 4 Amps at 12V. If you’re using 1000 watts inverter, then it simply means that you can use any of these appliances for up to 24 hours.



So, there you have it. As you can see, camping or RVing doesn’t mean that you should give up the comfort you enjoy at home. By reading this short guide, you can easily understand what size inverter is enough to power all your home appliances while still going down the road.

As you can see, having a reliable inverter doesn’t just mean the price. You need to calculate the size of the inverter and the quality of the battery to ensure they’re safe and reliable enough to power all your appliances without shutting down or causing any damage.